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... in which Paul Charney assembles a group of friends and 'experts' and asks questions on a topic of his choosing. This week: fashion!
WHAT NEW LOOKS DO YOU THINK WE’LL SEE THIS SPRING AND SUMMER?
CHRISTO VERDOSCI (KML/SF Opera Costumer)
I think that we will see new interpretations of spring styles past, but not really anything "new". Personally I like the fact the main trend story is color, not as an accent but as a theme.
 DANIEL LEE (KML member):
Edible clothes. And shirts made out of paper. SALLY THOMAS (KML/SF Opera Costumer):We've had the 80's comeback already, so I am thinking the 90's grunge revamped must be close behind. I guess that isn't really new, but hopefully we were too stoned to have remembered it the first time.MAURA MADDEN (KML alumnus): I think we’ll be seeing a lot more legs. And I don’t mean shorter skirts, I mean additional limbs. BRIAN "PERKY" PERKINS (KML alumnus): Going by what I saw in Buenos Aires last month, for ladies it’s going to be a lot of pink and brown, and for fellahs it’ll be soccer jerseys. JAMIE MUNGER (KML costumer): Obscure ethnic prints from countries you didn't know you had ever heard of, like Syria and the Sudan.CAT WARNER (Fashion Designer): Think audrey hepburn in roman holiday and with stevie nicks in her fleetwood mac fairy/ sorceress phase vacationing in zimbabwe I know this may be hard to imagine but look out for lots of swashbukling hippy princess getting tribal. pants tucked into boots, yes the peasant or dirndle skirt (aka the big skirt) but printed with scenic/tribal prints, empire ( or baby doll) dresses and tops in 70's chiffon prints flowing all ovah the plizace...gold & silver(think pirates booty) meets vintage 50's jacket and sandals go greek. wide belts and imperialistic khaki. xtra long lean tops over pants and crochet is the new knit. MEGARA DOORLY (fashion officianado): More crap. WHAT NEW LOOKS DO YOU WANT TO SEE THIS SPRING AND
SUMMER?DANIEL: NOT iPod chic.MAURA:  I want to see feathers. Seriously, feathers might be my favorite, although wearing too many of them can make one sneezy. PERKY: I want these stupid ass college kids to quit torturing me with their ironical 80s fashions. YOU WEREN’T THERE MOTHERFUCKERS. THE 80s WERE HORRIBLE. LET DEAD THINGS STAY DEAD. CHRISTO:I'd like to see more girls in Safeway in their bathing suits, like "A&P" by John Updike. not many fashion risks have the power to still shock, but I bet that would... especially with our summersSALLY: I think I am ready to see the jumpsuit make a comeback.CAT:no black high waisted pants (think catherine hepburn) and jaquard knit dresses (think missioni), low round toed boots, printed rain coats ,short sleeve sweaters, the demise of the UGG!!JAMIE: The Lord of the Rings boot interpreted as a sandal.MEGARA: How about what i was done with before it even started:broaches be goneflat shoescap sleevespants with draw strings at the anklespaul frank (who wants to be a walking advertisement?)overly eighties--the come back could have been moresubtle. it's so obviously a fad.the justin timberlake hat on girls
IS ANYONE PSYCHED ABOUT THE POSSIBLE RETURN OF THE “BIG SKIRT”?CHRISTO: Not for my muni commute...DANIEL: Um, what's the "big skirt?" I'm a guy, for chrissakes.JAMIE: It makes shoplifting easierMAURA: I like a big skirt, but no bustles, please. You can’t hustle in a bustle, and baby, I gotta hustle.CAT: But paul there is a more unsettling fashion which seems to have already gripped the world of style: bermuda shorts! does anyone besides me shudder to think of it?? i plead with the masses: do not forsake the pant!WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT THE USE OF ‘SHINY’ MATERIALS IN OUTFITS?SALLY: Shiny materials can be great. Nothing says "hi, I'm from the future," or "hey, I'm an alien," quite like a shiny fabric.MAURA: Shiny is hot. Shiny is best in moderation, though, so you better check yourself before you go shiny head-to-toe. PERKY: However, there are some ladies that can rock a few gemstones on a formal gown. But that doesn’t mean I want to see everyone out there dressing like <a href=”http://www.vegasretro.com/entertainers/photos/liberace_03_r.jpg”target=blank>Liberace</a> or <a href=”http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.strangesports.com/images/content/3943.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.strangesports.com/content/item/3943.html&h=403&w=300&sz=34&tbnid=e1ubvsfbTPEJ:&tbnh=121&tbnw=90&start=47&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfigure%2Bskater%26start%3D40%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN”target=blank>Tonya Harding</a>.CAT: But your question got me thinking: is all this free lovin' bling, "big skirts", bold patterns, gilded glamour and hand crafted - in China - goods lulling us into believing everything is over the top fabulous, when in actuality the dollar is weak and our cultural currency at an all time low? are we on the brink of the pendulums inevitable swing to more somber and muted shades, darker more comtemplative colors and simple clean matte silhouettes more reflective of a surfacing desire to pull back and get concerned about our place and impact in the world of right now.DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE DESIGNER? IF SO, EXPLAIN WHO IT
IS AND WHY.CAT: A favorite designer, that is hard so i'm going to give you 2. Claire McCardell: for freeing women by giving them "sportswear" : clothing that did not require a girdle to wear or look like a hottie in…MAURA: Cat Warner, because she’s got more style than anyone I know or have ever known. PERKY: Bay Area designer Elly Karl makes lovely items for the ladies. Maybe if enough dudes besides me hassle her she’ll start making nice things for the fellahs, too.SALLY:I think it might be Jean Paul Gaultier... his stuff is so creative, detailed, and original. For fashion and costume.DANIEL:Does American Apparel count as a designer? Seriously, those guys make the best fitting t-shirts, hoodies, and jackets I have ever worn.CHRISTO:I have several... I think one of the best designers today is Alexander Mcqueen. He has an impeccable eye, a great sense of shape and proportion and an unwavering aesthetic. He clearly adores women and utilizes his master tailoring skills to illustarte their strengthCAT:Dries Van Noten cause i think Roy G Biv hired him to create every incredible in between color then let him out of his contract so he could bring us mere mortals some of the most incredibly sophisticated clothing out there. JAMIE:Miuccia Prada, because she can't sew or draw and yet she has a multi-million dollar fashion house. CHRISTO:As far as personas, my favorite public-mess designer has to be Donatella Versace. MAURA: After Miss Warner comes Missoni, ‘cause of the love of knitwear. I love Prada, too. But I only own pieces designed by Cat Warner for Margaret O’Leary.
WILL THE PANT SUIT EVER RETURN TO THE GLORY IT ONCE ENJOYED?MEGARA: Yes.JAMIE: In response to the aging population I predict a surge in polyester production and a subsequent pantsuit revolution. MAURA: Um, depends on which era of pantsuit. The Kate Hepburn-esque pantsuit is never out of style for ladies of a certain age and status, but the Farrah Fawcett pantsuit is going to have to wait a few more years for a revival. PERKY:Yeah. You know why? Because people are fucking idiots. I bet if Jennifer Aniston and Cameron Diaz showed up wearing them in US Weekly, you’d see them flying off the racks and onto today’s hippest lemmings faster than you can say “trucker cap.”SALLY: The flame of glory is still burning bright for the pant suit in retirement villas and cruise shipsworldwide. It is only a matter of time until it returns to the foreground.DANIELYes. On August 13, 2006.
PLEASE LIST AND COMMENT ON YOUR FAVORITE FIVE FASHION ACCESSORIES FROM THE PAST 10 YEARS. THESE ARE ITEMS YOU HAVE OR STILL OWN. (AND YES, BAGS ARE INCLUDED).CHRISTO:1. SWATCH WATCHES - versatility and fashion combined with Swiss movement... How many did you own?2. MESSENGER BAGS - more utilitarian than a back pack3. KANGOL hats - bringing pimp style to the masses4. OVERSIZED SUNGLASSES - nothing more needs to besaid5. GUCCI FANNY PACKS - just kidding.. that is by farthe most obnoxious accessory EVERMAURA:It’s hard to decide on just five, as so many get left by the wayside. Nevertheless, here are five of the best, in no particular order:1. A GOLD CLUTCH that my grandmother carried to my parents’ wedding. It is combines both the awesomeness of the gold color and the sophistication of the clutchform. And it’s sentimental, you know?2. A VINTAGE PINK BROOCH I received as my Valentine’s Day gift this year from my amazing boyfriend. Sassy.3. A TURQUOISE AND METALLIC MIX SCARF made by Cat Warner. This scarf is not only a gorgeous color and a fantastically outrageous length, it is also soft as akitten – a kitten you can wrap around your neck.4. A SUPER-SKINNY SILVER AND GOLD BELT that was my mom’s. It’s smokin’. Wrap it around your waist and it makes a whole outfit pop. 5. TWO SILVER BRACELETS my brother gave me for my birthday. They are simple links of hearts on one, stars on the other. Since he gave them to me, Ihaven’t taken them off. CAT:1) can i say HAIR..ok i know that is something most people have but most times i will do my hair before i even think of what i am going to put on, and then it actually dictates the style i adopt for the day. so i will have to say the hairdo is a very important fashion "accesory" i have had for more than 10 years and hope to have for many more.2) i have been known to create an entire outfit around a belt. MY PAINTED EMBOSSED WAIST BELT (not actaully long enough to hold up pants, just used as a waist cincher and color accent) a definite fav.3) THE CARDIGAN cause its all about layering while still being able to see every component of a well thought out yet thrown together looking - look.4) HOOP EARRINGS..i've had many a pair over the years but there presence in my wardrobe a constant5) my BASIC COWBOY BOOTS. a timeless american classic that matches everything ( that i would wear, i can't help y'all sweatsuit devotees)SALLY 1. MONOGRAM JEWELRY 2. VELVETEEN BLAZERS 3.SWATCHES 4.AVIATOR SUNGLASSES 5.TUBE SOCKSDANIEL:1.JEAN JACKETI remember resisting for a while, but it's probably the most versatile thing in my closet2. BLUE-LENSED BLACK FRAME PLASTIC SUNGLASSES bought for $10 on Venice Beach-- alas, I lost these things 5 years ago and have been looking for a suitable replacement ever since. Oops I guess I don't still own them then. Shit. I can never follow directions!3.BLACK HOODIE-- the most worn and abused article of clothing I own, recently being phased out in favor of4. GREY HOODIE-- this one actually fits right.5. GREY TIMBUK2 BIKE MESSENGER BAG-- still going strong after 8 yearsMEGARA: 1.EARINGS 2.HAIR COMBS 3.BRACELETS 4.THE ORIG DIRT BAG, 5. RHINESTONE JK PIN (for John Kerry)JAMIE:1 The quintessential urban HIPSTER HAT2 The ANKLET MADE OUT OF ZIPPERS AND BUTTONS (the crafty look is SO San Francisco)3 The COOL FANNY PACK (I'm all about the hands free purse, the lady at the store said it looked cool)4 The FLASK THAT LOOKS LIKE A CELL PHONE (alcoholism is still hip, right?)5 The BELT TOO LARGE TO FIT THROUGH BELT LOOPS so I am forced to wear it 'loose' (what was that about neccesity and the mother of invention?)PERKY: 1. MY BUS PASS. Nothing says “I’m going nowhere” like the pre-use bulk purchase of municipal transit services.2. TAILORED SHIRTS. Anything off the rack fits like a tent. Which was great when I was a professional whirling dervish. But in an economy like this, people aren’t as thrilled to pay for my whirling services.3. MY POWERBOOK. It’s a nice piece of fashion that just happens to also cut movies and make music. It’s fucking awesome.4. BURGER JOINT. OK. Technically Burger Joint is not a fashion accessory. But it is my favorite. Sweet Lord in heaven is it my favorite.5. THE NEW YORKER. Nothing this side of Salon News says “I know my point of view, and, quite frankly, it is superior” better than misquoting whatever Gladwell or Sacks or Denby piece I just read in the New Yorker at those liberal Bastille Day parties that fill up mysocial calendar.WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH WOMEN AND SHOES? AND HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH TO SPEND ON A PAIR OF SHOES?DANIEL:Yeah, what is the fucking deal? Over $100 is too much to spend on a pair of shoes, unless they can turn into a car.SALLY:Shoes are great, because no matter how puffy you are feeling, your feet are always the same size. PERKY:I think it’s that women sometimes need something to put on their feet so that they don’t get cold, bruised, cut, or burnt (depending, of course, on local weather and road conditions). Come to think of it, some men I know wear shoes as well.CAT:what's the deal with men and watches? I don't need to spend a benjamin to find out the time. but, i do think that women have a foot fetish. (See Christo’s answer to previous question)JAMIE:It depends on how many meals she skips to afford the shoes. I'd say three is reasonable. You can tell a lot about a person by the shoes they wear. $500 shoes says eating disorder. SALLYAs for how much you can spend on shoes, my rule is no more than you are willing to spend on a ticket to see Prince. MAURA:Women and shoes are dumb. If all the ladies who wear uncomfortable “cute” shoes would stop wearing them already, then we could all walk properly and look hot. The playing field would be leveled. ‘Til then, the ladies who wear heels have an unfair advantage of looking sexier than the ladies in sneakers. But let me just tell you highsteppers, there is nothing sexyabout back pain. CHRISTO:umm based on the amount of shoes in my closet I cannot comment on this
WHAT CELEBRITY IS THE MOST GLAMOROUS?CHRISTO:Scarlett Johanssen.. effortless old fashioned Hollywood GlamourMEGARA:the guy from outkastCAT: well since no celebrity actually dresses themselves these days i would have to say Cate Blanchetts stylist knows how to do hella glamour.SALLY:Missy Elliott. Nobody can make track suits and Kangol hats look so cool.DANIEL: Tonya Glanz.MAURA:Audrey Hepburn is the most glamorous, even though she is dead. After that, Cate Blanchett has some good glam going on, if we’re talking about the land of the living.JAMIE:Bootsy CollinsPERKY:Tie. Charles Nelson Reilly and Carol Channing.
WHICH ONE WEARS THE MOST INTERESTING CLOTHES?JAMIE:BjorkCAT:even without the prada contract, maggie gylennhall has always had radical style...now its just radically bling.MEGARA:bjorkDANIEL:Beck.MAURA:Chloe Sevigny has a righteous style. She mixes vintage and new designers in a really bold and interesting way.CHRISTO:Chloe SevignySALLY:Alicia Keyes, though I don't mean interesting in a good way.PERKY:Richard Dawson, circa 1979.
IF YOU WERE TO DESIGN YOUR OWN LINE FOR THE RUNWAY,
WHAT WOULD BE THE CENTRAL CONCEPT FOR YOUR LINE?
CAT:knits kick woven ass!MEGARA:something where everyone wears big headphonesPERKY:Shirts with long enough sleeves that don’t fit like camping tents.DANIELIndie rock glam meets casual cool; or, "!"MAURA:Flapper chic. Flappers took the world by storm with their attitude-shifting fashions.SALLY:Deconstruction and natural fibersJAMIE:MathCHRISTO:RED !
FINALLY, IF YOU COULD TRAVEL BACK IN TIME, WHAT FASHION TREND WOULD YOU TRY TO BRING BACK AND MAKE POPULAR AGAIN?CHRISTO:The sensual elegance of the 1940's... sorely missedSALLY:Man girdles and sock gartersPERKY:Why would I need to travel back in time to do that? It seems like if you wanted to use a time machine for fashion, it would be to go back and stop a particular trend from happening (say, um, the 80s, for instance)?MAURA:Ancient Egyptian perfume cones are awesome. They look crazy, and they melt down during the day to perfume and moisturize the wearer. I mean, I guess they are sort of gross in concept, but they look amazingly weird, and that makes me psyched. Decorative deodorant is a wild fashion concept!Cat:spats of course, silly.MEGARA:i think they're on their way back without my assistance, but platform boots. i would only have to go as far back as 2000, when they were up in here. I still have one pair left, but they squeak when i walk so i only wear them in emergencies. the others have all been retired and i need more. fornarina, come BACK WITH THE BIG BOOTS!JAMIE:Bloomers.DANIEL:Nudity.PERKY:But if I had a time machine, I’d go back in time and stop the invention of the time machine. Think about it. Ooooooooooooooooh, time travel paradox! |
